Paris — We live in a dirty, dirty world.
A world where mud-slinging, mud-slinging and drain-jap are part of daily life. Little Wonder Demna, a renowned designer balencias And the master of visual metaphor decided to descend into the pit and the wall.
To be specific: They decided to truck 275 cubic meters (more than 9,700 cubic feet) of black soil harvested from a French peat bog and dump it in the middle of a convention center on the outskirts of Paris. Courtesy of Spanish artist Santiago Sierra, it was smoothed onto the walls, sliding down the sides of a giant trough, and dug into a shallow catwalk along the shore, seeping water. The air was pungent with moist eau de peat (a characteristic odor was created to enhance the smell of decomposition), and mud was flowing in the corridors. For fear of being wiped out, guests carefully chose their way to their seats.
The set was, Demna wrote in her show notes, “about digging for the truth and being down to earth.” If it requires taking off your hands (and feet and clothes), so be it. While his outfit has become his experiment with Balenciaga’s legacy, the ready-to-wear has become his instrument of social commentary. It’s not pretty outside. He didn’t even have a mud club.
Ye (the artist formerly known as) Kanye West, and a longtime Demna co-conspirator), decked out in leather biker pants, an oversized flak jacket, baseball cap, and Balenciaga-logo mouth guard, as if he had been punched in the face. Well, you have to fight for what you believe in.
Then came many strugglers – strugglers? — Men and women, in baggy jeans cut from the back and slung down at the hips to reveal the Balenciaga-logo waistbands of their underwear. Hulk-sized nylon jackets and dirty-up sweatshirts were paired with matching shorts and handbags made from old teddy bears that looked like they had been stripped down.
Some wore ballet flats on their feet and baby carriers in front of them, with terrifyingly alive baby dolls inside (giving new meaning to dad jeans). The scarf rolled down the body, tossed up and down. A shoulder bag had an integral sleeve, so it could be worn like a gauntlet. The hem of a lipstick-red, pleated silk gown turned brown in dirt; Similarly, a pink jersey number was tied several times on the side; A crystal-trimmed mesh tank gown, too. The last look was a leather dress sewn together from several cut-ups balencias hand band.
There was no hierarchy of preciousness here, which is part of the point. The one Demna has been making since she first put Balenciaga crocs on her runway years ago, and she’s been searching for dry sneakers with leather trash bags and other accessories ever since. This is the most calculated type of button-pushing. People panic, but he sets an agenda.
What Qualifies an Apparel as “Luxury”? Is it material, decoration, impracticality? Backstage, later, surrounded by a crush of journalists waving smartphones at their faces, Demna talks about the work that goes into permanently destroying a new garment (it’s technically difficult). . So would you feel like paying an exorbitant price for a purposefully sloppy sweatshirt like an idiot? Maybe – but there’s a precedent with ripped jeans.
And really, who is the newly-clothed emperor in this scenario: the man who blindly accepts the values assigned to him by others, or the one who buys into the idea of those values turning in and out?
They don’t call it wasted dirty money.
Yeh – who was in Paris as he was about to hold his surprise Yeezy show on Monday night – seemed on board with the idea, later Matthew M. Was making a front row appearance at Williams. givenchy Show, still wearing his mouth guard and traces of makeup.
Held outside, in the Jardin des Plantes, in the rain, it was Williams’ first pure womenswear show for Givenchy, two years after both sexes were combined on the same runway, better to illustrate her vision for the brand. was.
Which was … a confrontation! Out of cultures and style stereotypes, Paris and L.A., as told through destroyed jeans, baggy cargo shorts, cropped ruffled blouses, and tweed bouquets. Hit me with a trench coat.
Although more consistent than their previous outings, this one was no more original. This particular version of street-meets-chic is so familiar now, check out Heidi Slimane’s Celine, that it looks like part of fashion furniture. And a finale of the LBD (long black dress) was elegant, but distinctly archival. Williams’ Givenchy isn’t bad. It’s just unforgettable. It doesn’t make you feel more than anything.
Contrary to saying, Pierpaolo Piccioli’s valentinoWhich is full of emotion. In a preview, Piccioli talks about her frustrations from fashion’s lip service to inclusivity, even as the prices go through the roof, and about her relentless allegiance to a very specific body type. with.
(As far as the latter, he’s right, with one obvious exception: Ester Manas, by far the most inclusive brand of the season, which not only features skinny models and a handful of curvy guys, but every single one in between. Shows off the permutations—and then puts them on in body-friendly lingerie and tacky styles that seem like a real pleasure to wear.)
To change that, Piccioli ditched the particular shade of hot pink that had defined her previous collection (and this time was displayed in high-def on many in her audience), in five stretchy body suits. Build your entire collection instead of a series of different skin tones. They were the basis and background for hat dresses, elastic-waisted full skirts and slack trousers. Most of the forms were created from a single piece of fabric, so that when the surface was highly embellished (with sequins, say, or pleats), the structure itself was exquisitely simple.
The idea is that, instead of fitting the body to the garment, the garment should be changed to fit the body; That person decides the dress. A point that, like Demna’s Mud Club, is another challenge to the status quo worth celebrating. Even though it has been underestimated, to some extent, from head to toe valentino-The logo outfit (where the logo was also painted on the model’s face) and shoes were so unremarkable that many models had to take them off.
Still, the fact that women felt empowered to do so is perhaps a step forward in itself. Afterwards, they all went to the wet alley so that the gathered crowd of fans could see what was happening. The sight turned a little hazy, but no one blinked an eye.
This article originally appeared in The New York Times.